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These are some of the places we take family and friends to.
Green Venice - The
amazing Marais Poitevin (Green Venice), little known in the
UK, is an intricate maze of willow and poplar lined rivers
and canals covering 240,000 acres and can be explored by canoe
or punt, propelled by yourselves, which believe me is hilarious
trying to keep in a straight line, or by a "gondolier". One
startling sight which you may see is when two adjoining boatmen
stir up methane from the depths and set it alight. This area
once covered by sea was drained in the Middle Ages by monks and
Coulon the main centre a picturesque village with shops and
restaurants is only 40 mins drive away. Drive back through
Arcais, Damvix and Maillezais with its 10th century Abbey.
Don't miss the view from the tower or the son et lumiere display
in the refectory. Eat at the Auberge de l'Abbaye. Returning
to La Rochelle see the interesting Spanish style village under
construction south of Courcon.
Slightly further afield to the north is the jewel of Vouvant,
in the Forest of Mervent, with its lakes and opportunities
for walking, mountain- biking and rock climbing at La Pierre
Blanche. Vouvant has medieval ramparts, cobbled lanes, craft
shops and is billed as one of the prettiest villages in France.
Ile de Re - The island
bridge is just 15 minutes drive away and a trip around the
island fully justifies the fairly hefty toll of 16 euros (9
euros off season). Almost immediately on the left is the attractive
sandy beach of Sablanceaux. Drive through Rivedoux Plage where
you will see typical low whitewashed houses with green shutters
surrounded by hollyhocks. On to La Flotte harbour for morning
coffee and then to St Martin with its star shaped fortifications,
designed by Vauban the Sun King's favourite engineer, built
partly to keep the English out and recently given for World
Heritage status.The island's capital full of cafes and restaurants,
has a surprisingly steep shopping street and its harbour is
full of fishing and pleasure craft.
The island produces several wines including a good Chardonnay.
You may see some of the island's unique woolly donkeys who
were given special pantaloons to protect them from flies and
mosquitoes as they worked in the production of sea salt by
evaporation. The industry still exists, as explained in a
small museum at Loix, though is declining in competition with
oyster farming. Ars en Re which also has the prettiest
village label is known for its rocket like black and white
church spire which acted as a daymark for shipping. The lighthouse
La Phare de Baleines at the northernmost tip is impressive
with good views from the top. Be sure to have a swim at Le
Bois Plage- good for surfing if the conditions are right.
The island is good cycling territory with lots of separate
cycle tracks and a high point of just 65 feet.
Saintes - The Roman
town of Saintes( Mediolanum Santorum) about 50 mins drive
via the A837 motorway which cuts through the Crazannes Quarry
used in the building of the town which has the most important
Roman remains in France outside Provence and the Rhone Valley.
The Italianate roofscape of dark red pantiles is set off by
its position on the River Charente along which there is a
summer steamer service. Highlights are the Archaeology Museum
with its display of inscribed stones from demolished Roman
buildings and walls, the Germanicus arch (Arc de Triomphe)
built in 19AD, saved and relocated in 1843, St Peters Cathedral,
St Eutrope's Church (a World Heritage site) and the relatively
well- preserved Gallo- Roman amphitheatre which accommodated
15-20000 people. Saintes later became an important pilgrimage
centre associated with the Way of St James. The Jardins Public
alongside the Charente are spectacular and have a double avenue
of lime trees.
On the way back the gardens at La Roche Courbon (St Porchaire)
are probably the most beautiful in the south west. You could
also take in the attractive riverside towns of Tonnay-Charente
and St Savinien. If you have more time after Saintes drive
a further 15 miles to Cognac and visit one of the world famous
distilleries (Hennessy, Martell, Remy Martin). Pineau a mixture
of cognac and grape juice (white or rose) is also a Charente
speciality.
Chatelaillon, Yves, Fouras
- Chatelaillon Plage (10 mins drive) the capital of the area
before La Rochelle has a beach 2 miles long, very safe and
swimmable 2 hours either side of high tide( we swim there).
The town has a tree-lined main street but its main attraction
is 750 19th and early 20 th century villas in the numerous
side streets built by the middle classes to enjoy the sea
air and bathing. There is a good selection of cafes and restaurants,
indoor market, casino and a modern indoor/outdoor swimming
pool. Market days are Tuesday and Friday. To the south is
the older Les Boucholeurs with all the paraphernalia of the
oyster industry. The bar/ restaurant La Havane has Latin American
music.
Just down the coast is Marais Yves National Nature Reserve
where wild geese, shelduck, heron, stork, spoonbill can be
seen at various times of the year. Along this coast you will
see examples of the "ecluses a poisson" wooden stuctures with
dip nets which are lowered in to the sea at high tide to catch
a variety of small fish.
Further south is the small peninsula of Fouras which has
both north and south beaches and the 17th century Fort Vauban.
Ferries run from the Pointe de la Fumee, a 25 min trip to
the Ile d'Aix where Napoleon's house (1808 ) now a museum, is
the most impressive building with its Imperial Eagle and classic
columns. Cars are banned on the island but it can be toured
on foot in 3 hours via the circular coastal path.
La Rochelle - The city
gets a 3 star rating in the Michelin Guide. In our view it
has everything! Decent climate, historic centre with one and
a half miles of arcaded streets, new university, old port
surrounded by cafes and restaurants, chic shopping, large
aquarium, maritime museum, new fishing harbour, commercial
port and cruiseport.
After falling on hard times in the early 1990's, the city
has developed with pedestrian streets, cheap rental bikes,
electric cars and a generally green way of life. From the
Vieux Port you can get boats 1. across the harbour 2. to the
marina at Les Minimes (3000 berths) 3. St Martin, Ile de Re
4. Ile d'Aix 5. St Dennis d'Oleron 6. Around Fort Boyard. The
old harbour is flanked by 3 historic towers, all visitable.
Other interesting buildings include the Hotel de Ville with
its Gothic outer walling, the Cafe de la Paix (1895) in Place
Verdun, the Grand Horloge and adjacent theatre formerly a
convent, then a fish market, the museums of Beaux Arts, Nouveau-
Monde, D'Orbigny and the magnificent station. Incidentally
the TGV to Paris takes just over three hours and is much cheaper
than UK prices. Parc Charruyer next to the city centre is
over a mile long and links up to Parc Frank Delmas, named
after a Resistance hero. The covered market is open every
day, street markets are held on Wednesday and Saturday with
a Petticoat Lane type market at La Pallice on Sundays. La
Rochelle has many festivals- films, jazz and an enormous boatshow.
The latter called Grand Pavois is the biggest in W. Europe
and takes place between 23 and 28 Sept in 2009. The last night
features the best son et lumiere/fireworks display I've ever
seen. Big fireworks also on Bastille Day 14 July. It is also
the starting point for various Transatlantic races. Parking
in La Rochelle is cheap, even free between 12 and 2pm. The
best place to park coming from La Jarne is just to the north
of the station or in the nearby Bastion multi.
Ile d'Oleron/ Gironde
- Too much to see!
Brouage - 40 mins drive.
The fortified town of Brouage(1630-1640) has ramparts built
as a square, 400m each side. The walk along the ancient walls
gives superb views of the surrounding countryside. Formerly
one of the most important salt ports in Western Europe it
is now surrounded by marshland. There is a museum dedicated
to local inhabitant Samuel Champlain who discovered Canada.
Bourcefranc le Chapus
- visit Fort Louvois 1691 situated on an islet linked by tidal
causeway to the mainland.
Marennes - supposedly
produces the best oysters in France. Follow the signs for
"La Cite d'huitres" and end up at the port of La Cayenne where
you can take a boat trip round the oyster fishing area and
its brightly coloured cabins.
Ile d'Oleron - The second
biggest island in France after Corsica. You could of course
spend a whole week exploring the island which is connected
to the mainland by a toll-free bridge. A taster would be just
to visit St Trojan-les- bains, taking the P'tit Train de St
Trojan through the pine forest to the southern part of the
Grande Plage.
Gironde estuary - an
alternative little train trip is on the mainland from Saujon
to La Tremblade. On the Gironde coast the zoo at La Palmyre
has 3 star Michelin status. Situated in a pine/oak forest
it is reputed to be one of the best in Europe. South of Royan
there are two must- see places. First is Meschers-sur- Gironde
where within the white river cliffs are a series of prehistoric
troglodyte dwellings subsequently occupied by pirates then
persecuted protestants. There is a one hour guided tour of
the Regulus grottoes. Second closeby on an estuarine promontory
is the Romanesque 13th century fortified Eglise de St Radegonde
adjoining the ancient village of Talmont-sur-Gironde. It is
associated with pilgrims crossing the Gironde on their way
to Santiago de Compostela.
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